Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Parts Lots Of Them

RB25_VR
 Share

Recommended Posts

RB25_VR Apprentice

RB25_VR

Posted
Posted

hey everyone

heres a list of parts for sale

complete r33 RB25DET engine, with loom, turbo, manifold, gearbox ect OFFERS

xtreme puk clutch, with rb25 flywheel

series 1 headlights $120

series 2 tail lights $ offers

full r33 series 1 interior . good condition $ 500

R33 silver doors - $150 each

R33 series 2 front bar with bottom lip- $ 300- incc black side skirts

r33 5 spoke rims , no tyres ( wll there are but no good) $ 250 painted grey

bonnet latch opener - $ 30

Air conditioning system $ 80

Climate control $ 200

electric window motors , regulators, switches ect, $ 200

Hicas system good working order - $200

Hard shocks with lowered springs aparently tien's $300

good lsd - possibly mechanical?? with rear cradle $ 550

boot lid wioth spoiner ( not gtr) $ 150 silver in colour

front brakes, 4 pot , good condition with lines and rotors and calipers , pads averidge $ 300

rear brakes , black with nissan on them $ 150

brake booster and master cyl, $ 100

rb 25 gearbox conversion , everything you need , consoles ect.

3.5" exhaust fropn dump to diff, $ 70

dashboard no cracks ect including instrument cluster ( 70,00 kms on clock) $ 150

rad support ( small front cut ) $ 300 coond copndition

series 1 grill, $60

folding mirrors $ 100 silver in colour god condition

all other parets avalable

holla and ill post them ecod

cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115509-r33-parts-lots-of-them/
Share on other sites
S13Deviat Grand Master

S13Deviat

Posted
Posted

Also interested in the brake setup

front brakes, 4 pot , good condition with lines and rotors and calipers , pads averidge $ 300

rear brakes , black with nissan on them $ 150

brake booster and master cyl, $ 100

Just need to confirm if I am doing a 4 to 5 stud conversion, do i need the brake booster & master cylinder? Also what dimensions are the front and rear rotors? Front (296mmx30mm) and Rear (297mmx18mm) ?????

Cheers

steveP Proficient

steveP

Posted
Posted
r33 5 spoke rims , no tyres ( wll there are but no good) $ 250 painted grey

front brakes, 4 pot , good condition with lines and rotors and calipers , pads averidge $ 300

rear brakes , black with nissan on them $ 150

brake booster and master cyl, $ 100

DO NOT TRUST THIS GUY!!!!

I had organised a deal with the above items a week ago. had it all sorted and he sold them to someone else. HOW F**CKING RUDE!

and now hes put them for sale, maybe he will take ur money, then tell u he sold them already.

Just look around and deal with someone trustworthy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • DRoc81
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Milkmun
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By Milkmun · Posted

      At least it was the ex.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...