Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Induction Box Do It Yourself


Recommended Posts

Guest TR34GT

Hi SAU members.

As promised, my son and I now post the pictures and instructions for the DIY induction box, which is now finished, installed, and working like a treat.

The best thing about this exercise, was that the whole deal cost just $40. (with a few bits lying around too)

The car had an HKS Superflow pod filter, which we were trying to make legal.

The steps we took were as follows:

1. Buy a pices of 2mm thick cardboard from the paper shop.......around 400mm x 600mm - $2.00

2. Cut to the approximate shape to house the filter (car specific fit) using the existing GTT mounting points and trial fit until you get the approximate correct fit. The dimensioned template we made is shown in the attached pictures.

3. Buy a 900mm x 250mm x 2mm think peice of scrap aluminium polished sheet - $20

4. Mark out your template on half of the aluminum sheet and cut out with a jigsaw

5. Mark out the approximate fold lines on the aluminium

6. Fold by hand across the fold lines in the directions with a gentle constant pressure across a rolled flat edge

7. Drill 5mm dia holes in each of the end lugs

8. Trial fit a million times to get it right, and keep filing, cutting and massaging until you get the thing to fit perfectly.

9. Cut out two 80mm x 30mm peices, and round edges to for the top fixing mounts, bend at 90 degrees, after drilling two x 5mm holes in each lug side (see photos)

10. Fit top fixing mounts to side as shown using 2 x 5mm x 25mm high tensile steel hex bolts, washers and nuts.

11. Install your new heatshield using the existing mounting bolt and one new 25mm x 5mm dia high tensile steel bolt (see pictures) - $6

12. Cut shape of top out of same cardboard and trial fit so that it does not touch any of the chassis edges of the engine bay.

13. Cut out the top out of the other half of the aluminum using your template.

14. Mark out exact drilling points through top, to match fixing points and position in engine bay.

15. Trial fit another million times until its just right.

16. Remove all, and hang by lugs in a fairly dust free sterile environment (sure, we used the garage)

17. Spray Knights grey primer on all areas (touch dry in 15 minutes) - $7

18. Spray Knights engine enamal (gloss black etc) covering all areas till desired effect is achieved. - $7

19. Leave for at least one hour

20. Fit and glue on a rubber / foam edging across the bottom.

21. Fit all as shown, and dress with whatever vinyls you want (Mines in this case)

The project took a full day.

The installation is solid, with no vibrations or noise, and I think its now made that pod filter legal.

(At least we hope so)

Anyone wanting any help, or any additional information, just email me.

Regards

TR34GT (Jim)

post-48597-1207737484_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737498_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737513_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737525_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737537_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737557_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737577_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737596_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737623_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737641_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737661_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737682_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737702_thumb.jpg

post-48597-1207737723_thumb.jpg

very nice job man, looks heaps pro.. Just a quick question. With the stock snorkel gone, where is the heatshield pulling air from? I know its pretty tight on the underside of the filter esp. with the stock cooler piping there, did you route a CAI into the guard too?

Also, did u notice a difference? is it quieter? more power?

Edited by Angelecles
Guest TR34GT
very nice! i'll have a go at this myself.

do you have larger versions of the pics? more importantly pics of the measurements as they're too small :blink:

thanks

R-Spec,

Many thanks.

If you open up each pic in your browser and in the bottom right hand corner, increase the magnification to 200%, the pics should be ok.

One thing I didn't mention is that at the chasis mounting points, I used a 4mm thick x 6mm dia reinforced rubber fuel injection hose between two washers, around the 5mm bolts, as anti vibration mounts. Don't forget those.

I hope all works out.

Remember to trial fit 500 times and the result should be good.

Regards

Jim

Guest TR34GT
very nice job man, looks heaps pro.. Just a quick question. With the stock snorkel gone, where is the heatshield pulling air from? I know its pretty tight on the underside of the filter esp. with the stock cooler piping there, did you route a CAI into the guard too?

Also, did u notice a difference? is it quieter? more power?

Angelo,

On the GTT, there is a direct opening below the pod filter position which leads straight to the left hand grill openings in the front bumper and behind the the bumper.

No air piping needed. (I hope)

The noise from the pod filter was not reduced, however, if you were to also line the box with some sound deadening material on the inside, you might just quieten the ride.

As far as more power, there doesn't seem to be a difference, however, I'll try and route some 3" flex tubing directly to the pod, and see what happens.

I'll let you know.

Regards

Jim

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...
  • 2 months later...

Hello Guys

Here are some pictures of my DIY induction box and snorkel, following some of Jim ideas

post-65874-0-44202400-1307504202_thumb.jpg post-65874-0-83250800-1307504238_thumb.jpg post-65874-0-41791900-1307504271_thumb.jpg

post-65874-0-74188900-1307504346_thumb.jpg post-65874-0-27018800-1307504392_thumb.jpg

Love this idea here, Gonna give this one a go but rather than make a wall in front of the pod(where the headlight is) ill leave it open so air can come through the head light area.

  • 1 year later...

Hello Guys

Here are some pictures of my DIY induction box and snorkel, following some of Jim ideas

post-65874-0-44202400-1307504202_thumb.jpg post-65874-0-83250800-1307504238_thumb.jpg post-65874-0-41791900-1307504271_thumb.jpg

post-65874-0-74188900-1307504346_thumb.jpg post-65874-0-27018800-1307504392_thumb.jpg

That looked awesome dude.

hmmmmmmmm................................carbon fibre!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-)

Edited by TR33GT-001
  • 2 months later...

Hi SAU members.

As promised, my son and I now post the pictures and instructions for the DIY induction box, which is now finished, installed, and working like a treat.

The best thing about this exercise, was that the whole deal cost just $40. (with a few bits lying around too)

The car had an HKS Superflow pod filter, which we were trying to make legal.

The steps we took were as follows:

1. Buy a pices of 2mm thick cardboard from the paper shop.......around 400mm x 600mm - $2.00

2. Cut to the approximate shape to house the filter (car specific fit) using the existing GTT mounting points and trial fit until you get the approximate correct fit. The dimensioned template we made is shown in the attached pictures.

3. Buy a 900mm x 250mm x 2mm think peice of scrap aluminium polished sheet - $20

4. Mark out your template on half of the aluminum sheet and cut out with a jigsaw

5. Mark out the approximate fold lines on the aluminium

6. Fold by hand across the fold lines in the directions with a gentle constant pressure across a rolled flat edge

7. Drill 5mm dia holes in each of the end lugs

8. Trial fit a million times to get it right, and keep filing, cutting and massaging until you get the thing to fit perfectly.

9. Cut out two 80mm x 30mm peices, and round edges to for the top fixing mounts, bend at 90 degrees, after drilling two x 5mm holes in each lug side (see photos)

10. Fit top fixing mounts to side as shown using 2 x 5mm x 25mm high tensile steel hex bolts, washers and nuts.

11. Install your new heatshield using the existing mounting bolt and one new 25mm x 5mm dia high tensile steel bolt (see pictures) - $6

12. Cut shape of top out of same cardboard and trial fit so that it does not touch any of the chassis edges of the engine bay.

13. Cut out the top out of the other half of the aluminum using your template.

14. Mark out exact drilling points through top, to match fixing points and position in engine bay.

15. Trial fit another million times until its just right.

16. Remove all, and hang by lugs in a fairly dust free sterile environment (sure, we used the garage)

17. Spray Knights grey primer on all areas (touch dry in 15 minutes) - $7

18. Spray Knights engine enamal (gloss black etc) covering all areas till desired effect is achieved. - $7

19. Leave for at least one hour

20. Fit and glue on a rubber / foam edging across the bottom.

21. Fit all as shown, and dress with whatever vinyls you want (Mines in this case)

The project took a full day.

The installation is solid, with no vibrations or noise, and I think its now made that pod filter legal.

(At least we hope so)

Anyone wanting any help, or any additional information, just email me.

Regards

TR34GT (Jim)

Wow your set up is so clean

Good work !

What intercool kit are you using ?

And did you have to cut a hole for the cold side ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
×
×
  • Create New...